Homemade Wonton Soup Recipe

Plump and juicy wontons, swimming in a rich, savory broth.

Two bowls of wonton soup on a marble surface. Each bowl has a white ceramic soup spoon in it. There is another bowl on the top left corner of the image, and a glass of liquid on the bottom right periphery.

Serious Eats / Qi Ai

Why It Works

  • Making the broth with a combination of chicken backs, pork trotters, dry-cured ham, dried shrimp, and glutamate-rich seaweed results in an extra-savory and rich soup.
  • Brining the shrimp that fill the wontons in a solution of salt and baking soda preserves their juiciness and makes them crisp.

My love for wonton soup may not be as deep as my sister's, who dives into a bowl with a passion only rivaled by her love of beef chow fun, but it still ranks up there in the "top five soups" category for me.

I'll admit it: the wonton soups of my youth—the one that originally made me fall in love with the salty, slippery, comforting dish—were probably not good. Ordered from takeout joints or strip malls on the way home from ski trips, they were thick, clumsily made wontons in a broth that tasted mostly of salt with a hint of cabbage.

Since then, I've made it a mission to try all of the wonton soup in the city worth trying (a pretty tall task) and have discovered that when done right, wonton soup need not be the cheap appetizer of choice, but a worthy dish unto itself. There's the Chinese-American roast pork broth version with thick skins sold at barbecue shops, or the large, pork and bok choy-filled versions served floating in chicken soup with noodles at the Shanghainese restaurants. At the city's handful of Fu Zhou restaurants, you can get broth filled with dozens of wispy, comet-shaped wontons and bits of pickle and dried shrimp.

But my favorite version—the version that's good enough to eat like a meal and not just an MSG headache-inducing appetizer,* is the rich, shrimp and pork version served in Hong Kong. The broth, a far cry from the salty, one-dimensional versions I had as a kid, is made with pork (and sometimes chicken), with a rich body and a faint aroma of the sea imparted by dried flounder and shrimp. The wontons are stuffed fuller than most, folded into little round parcels, filled with juicy pork and shrimp that pop out as you bite through the thin, thin skins; the shrimp crunching under your teeth as you chew.

*Yes I know, MSG headaches are a myth or at best psychosomatic.

This is the version of wonton soup that I crave, and this is the version I was after in my own kitchen.

A Superior Broth

Just like great French or Japanese food, good broth is one of the backbones of Chinese cuisine, and the most important broth when it comes to fancy soups is superior stock, a rich broth made with pork, chicken, Jinhua ham, and aromatics.

A large mixing bowl containing chicken parts for superior broth.

Serious Eats / J. Kenji López-Alt

The chicken part of the broth is easy—chicken backs are cheap and packed with bits of meat and fat that give the broth flavor, along with plenty of connective tissue that breaks down into gelatin over the course of a long simmer, lending body to the broth.*

*I've been informed that many restaurants in Hong Kong in fact do not start with a superior stock, instead using just pork and seafood. I'll stick with chicken in mine, as they're cheap and a great source of gelatin and flavor.

But what about the pork?

I tried making broths using pork neck bones and pork trotters—two of the most commonly recommended cuts.

Pork trotters and pork neck bones on a cutting board.

Serious Eats / J. Kenji López-Alt

The difference between the two is pretty striking. Trotters, just like hands and feet, are packed with tons of short bones, and many bones mean plenty of connective tissue to enrich your broth. A broth made with just neck bones doesn't get much richer than one made with chicken alone, though it does acquire a sweet, porky flavor. Check out how thick it is when chilled:

A congealed pork broth made from pork neck bones in a deli container.
Broth made with pork neck.

Serious Eats / J. Kenji López-Alt

You can see there's a small amount of gelatin in there, but not much.

Now take a look at how thick a pork trotter broth gets:

Broth made with pork trotters thickened with gelatin in a deli container.
Broth made with pork trotters.

Serious Eats / J. Kenji López-Alt

Gelled enough to hold its shape and be scooped! Texture-wise, this translates to a richer, more mouth-coating, lip-smacking feel. Flavorwise, however, pork trotters don't pack as much punch as pork necks. Normally, I'd recommend using a mixture of both, but in this case, since we're still going to be adding so many aromatics and yet another form of pork to the mix, the added flavor benefits of using a combination of neck and trotter gets lost in the long run.

Pork trotters and chicken it is.

Next up: The ham.

Jinhua ham on a cutting board.

Serious Eats / J. Kenji López-Alt

Jinhua ham is a Chinese salted ham from Jinhua province that's been produced since at least the 10th century AD (take that, prosciutto and serrano!). It's a basic salted, aged ham that is quite similar to American-style country hams, which is good news if you don't live nearby a Chinese market that sells it. Unlike its European and American cousins, Jinhua ham is used primarily for flavoring soups and stews, not for eating plain.

For my next batch of broth, I tried adding a hunk of it along with my bones and simmered the whole thing for a few hours. The broth came out ridiculously salty as the ham slowly leached its salt into the water. Lesson learned: just like with an American-style country ham, you must blanch your ham before you cook it.

I also tried using a few different substitutions for the Chinese ham and found that a chunk of country ham (or a country ham bone) or a chunk of prosciutto (you can generally get prosciutto ends relatively cheap from Italian delis) are the best substitutes, though even a hunk of bacon or salt pork will do the job.

For Clarity's Sake

One thing I immediately noticed with my finished broths was that they were slightly brown and very cloudy. This is due to the clotted blood, proteins, and other impurities that are leeched out of cut bones during the first few minutes of the simmering process:

A boiling pot of broth with scums on the surface.

Serious Eats / J. Kenji López-Alt

As with Japanese-style tonkotsu broth, blanching the bones briefly in boiling water, then dumping the water, scrubbing the bones, and starting with fresh water will give you a clearer broth with a cleaner flavor.

You wanna see what you're trying to get rid of?

Discarded scums from bones used in the chicken/pork broth.

Serious Eats / J. Kenji López-Alt

This. Not pretty, right?

I dump my pot, bones and all, directly in the sink then rub the bones all over under cold running water, using my fingertips or a chopstick to get out all of the bits of gunk that are caught in their crevices. It's actually strangely satisfying.

When you add the fresh water and bring it up to a simmer again, the only stuff that floats to the surface is fat and a small amount of clean, white flotsam.

Some folks like to meticulously skim away this fat and scum, but I've found that so long as you get rid of the gunky black stuff that coagulates within the first fifteen minutes or so, you actually end up with better flavor if you don't skim your broth until after straining it.

The great thing here is that since we were planning on blanching our salty ham anyway, you can just throw it right in the pot with the rest of the ingredients. Most of the salt will leech out during the initial boil.

Added advantage:

A spoon scooping off fat from the surface of the pork/chicken broth.

Serious Eats / J. Kenji López-Alt

Skimming stock after cooling lets you scoop it off with a spoon. (Of course, if you want to eat the soup on the same day, you can skim with a ladle after cooking.)

Classic Aromatics

Scallions and ginger on a cutting board.

Serious Eats / J. Kenji López-Alt

This one is easy. The major aromatic elements in a superior stock number only three: ginger and scallions start the party.

Napa cabbage on a cutting board.

Serious Eats / J. Kenji López-Alt

And Napa cabbage raises the roof.

Let's not mess with what ain't broken.

Ocean Umami

Now here we've got a number of questions. First off, what does seafood even bring us?

Well some ocean-y aroma, obviously, but there's another important factor: flavor enhancement.

We all know that the salt of glutamic acid (A.K.A. monosodium glutamate or MSG) is the natural compound largely responsible for the sensation of umami in foods. It's what makes things like hams, Parmesan cheese, or soy sauce taste so savory.

But there are other compounds that can enhance the effect of glutamic acid, namely inosinate and guanosine, two proteins that are found in abundance in seafood, particularly dried seafood, where it gets concentrated. On their own, inosinate and guanosine have no real flavor, they merely act to increase our own perception of savoriness, much like sprinkling your meat with salt will not just make it taste salty, but will actually make it taste more like itself.

There's a reason why disodium guanylate—a salt form of guanosine—is used regularly as a flavor enhancer in instant noodles and chips.

You can get it in powdered form (if you look hard enough and buy in bulk), but fortunately for us, there are natural sources.

Dried shrimp on a cutting board.

Serious Eats / J. Kenji López-Alt

Dried seafood is the most abundant source, and I tried making broths with dried shrimp, dried fish, and dried scallops (our office happens to be situated above a dried seafood store). Of the three, the scallops were best, with an intense savoriness and a very mild seafood aroma that didn't overwhelm the dish with fishiness.

That said, it's not easy for everyone to find dried scallops.

Fresh shrimp in a steel mixing bowl.

Serious Eats / J. Kenji López-Alt

"Since we're going to be putting shrimp into our wontons anyway, might as well get the most out of'em, right?" I thought to myself.

Shrimp shells floating on top of a chicken/pork broth.

Serious Eats /J. Kenji López-Alt

I bought a couple dozen head-on, shell-on shrimp, peeled them, then used the heads and shells to flavor my broth. It had some of the seafood aroma I was looking for, but lacked the deep savoriness you get out of dried seafood.

The solution? Use a combination of fresh shrimp shells, along with a strip of Japanese kombu—dried giant sea kelp rich in gluatamic acid that pushes the savory factor of the dish right up to where it belongs.

A sheet of kombu on a cutting board

Serious Eats / J. Kenji López-Alt

Bingo. Flavorful broth with a mild seafood aroma and a deep savoriness, without having to resort to expensive dried fish.

Perfecting the Filling

We're on the home stretch here.

The filling for Hong Kong-style wontons is generally made with lightly seasoned pork flavored with ginger, yellow chives,* soy sauce, and sesame oil, along with some form of shrimp. In the simplest version, the shrimp is ground up right along with the pork, but I personally prefer the version in which the shrimp are left intact, each wonton being stuffed with a single plump, crunchy shrimp.

*A variety of young chive that has a more delicate flavor than regular chives or scallions, either can be substituted in a pinch.

Filling for wonton in a mixing bowl.

Serious Eats / J. Kenji López-Alt

I've made enough dumplings and wontons in my day to know how to make a good basic pork filling (use plenty of fat, season it properly, and taste it by microwaving a small portion on a plate for 10 seconds), so I figured making these shrimp and pork wontons would be as easy as sticking a shrimp into the wrapper before sealing and boiling it.

The wonton that came out had perfectly cooked pork accompanied by a rubbery, mealy shrimp.

How the heck do those restaurants get their shrimp so crunchy?

Serendipitously, just last week a reader emailed me a link to an article on Rasa Malaysia that addresses this very issue. The answer? Alkaline water. Apparently, soaking shrimp in a bath of water with baking soda for fifteen minutes to up to a day will alter their texture, delivering that crunch I was looking for.

Soaking shrimp in 3 bowls of liquid: plain water, salted water, and water with baking soda.

Serious Eats / J. Kenji López-Alt

I tested this by trying shrimp soaked in plain water (my tap comes out slightly alkaline at a pH of 7.5), shrimp soaked in salt water, shrimp soaked in baking soda-spiked water, and completely unsoaked shrimp.

Three shrimp lying on a cutting board: one soaked with plain water, one with salted water, and one with baking soda-spiked water.

Serious Eats / J. Kenji López-Alt

The salt water shrimp came out a little bit juicier—brining can help meat retain moisture—while the baking soda water showed a clear improvement in texture. The shrimp nearly popped in my mouth. Combining baking soda and salt was the best option, delivering shrimp that were both crunchy and juicy.

To be honest, I'm not exactly sure why the technique works, but I'm looking into it and will get back to anyone who has questions.

Forming Wontons

With a great broth and a killer filling with crunchy shrimp, the only thing left to do is form the wontons.

I use store-bought skins (the square kind, not the round dumpling variety) of the thinnest gauge I can find. If you have an option between plain wheat flour wrappers and those that are enhanced with egg yolk, go with the latter, as they stand up to boiling a little bit better, developing a nice chewiness as they cook.*

*Be aware that some brands of wonton wrappers offer both white and yellow varieties, the only difference being the inclusion of food coloring to simulate eggs.

You can shape your wontons any way you wish. The easiest is the comet-shaped wontons where you place a wrapper on your hand, add a small dollop of filling and a shrimp, then squeeze it all shut. Almost equally simple is a triangle shape, in which you lay the wrapper flat on a board, add the filling, then fold the wrapper over. In either case, make sure to moisten the wrapper with a fingertip or brush of water before sealing to help it close up tight, and squeeze out as much air as possible before sealing in order to prevent them from blowing out as they simmer.

If you want to be extra fancy, you can form little tortellini-like purses, which allows you to maximize the amount of plump filling within each wonton:

Wonton lineup on a cutting board.

Serious Eats / J. Kenji López-Alt

The process is slightly more complicated, but not hard once you've got the hang of it. (I explain how to form this wonton shape in the recipe steps below.)

A wonton in a spoon overlooking a bowl of wonton.

Serious Eats / J. Kenji López-Alt

Now doesn't that look like something you'd like to slip into your gullet? I know I do.

The best part about making wonton soup at home for me is this: the store-bought version never has enough vegetables. Those tender bites of cabbage and slivers of yellow chives are some of my favorite parts.

Making it at home lets you load it up right.

And while we're at it, we may as well throw in a handful of noodles as well. My mother always said there's no use in letting a good broth go to waste.*

*At least, I wish I had the kind of mother who dispensed pearls of ancient Chinese wisdom like this a bit more regularly.

April 2013

Recipe Facts

Prep: 60 mins
Cook: 2 hrs 30 mins
Active: 60 mins
Total: 3 hrs 30 mins
Serves: 4 servings

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Ingredients

For the Broth:

  • 2 pounds (900g) chicken backs, wingtips, and/or bones. roughly chopped with a cleaver

  • 1 1/2 pounds (680g) pig's trotters, split or sliced

  • 3 ounces (85g) Chinese ham or prosciutto

  • Shells taken from 24 small shrimp (shrimp flesh used to make the wontons; see ingredients list below)

  • One 3- by 4-inch square (8g) kombu (see notes)

  • 1 ounce (30g) dried shrimp or stockfish (optional)

  • 8 scallions (150g), whites and greens reserved separately

  • One 4-inch (60g) knob fresh ginger, sliced, plus 2 teaspoons (7g) grated fresh ginger

  • 12 leaves (340g) Napa cabbage, cut into 2-inch pieces, divided

For the Wontons:

  • 24 small shrimp (225g), shells removed and reserved for stock

  • 1/2 teaspoon baking soda

  • 2 teaspoons (6g) Diamond Crystal kosher salt, divided, plus more to taste; for table salt, use half as much by volume or the same weight

  • 3/4 pound (340g) ground pork

  • 2 teaspoons (10g) sugar

  • 1 teaspoon (5ml) soy sauce

  • 2 teaspoons (10ml) sesame oil

  • 1/2 cup (40g) yellow chives, thinly sliced, divided (see notes)

  • 20 wonton wrappers, thin variety preferred

Directions

  1. For the Broth: Combine chicken, pork trotters, and ham in a large stockpot and cover with water. Bring to a boil over high heat. Boil for 10 minutes, then dump contents into the sink and let liquid drain. Clean bones and meat under cold running water, rubbing off any scum or blood clots that may appear and return to the stockpot.

    A four-image collage. The top left image shows Chicken, pork trotters, and ham coming to a boil in water in a large stockpot. The top right image shows the contents of the stockpot being dumped into a clean sink. The bottom left image shows a pair of hands cleaning the blanched boats and meat under cold running water. The bottom right image shows the cleaned bones and meat returned to the stockpot.

    Serious Eats / Qi Ai

  2. Fill stockpot with cold water until water is about 1 inch above the surface of the bones. Add reserved shrimp shells, kombu, dried shrimp or stockfish (optional), scallion whites, sliced ginger, and 4 cabbage leaves. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce to a bare simmer, and cook, uncovered, until broth is deeply flavorful, about 2 hours.

    A two-image collage. The top image shows water, kombu, dried shrimp, scallions, sliced ginger, and 4 cabbage leaves coming to a boil inside a stockpot. The bottom shot shows the ingredients after simmering for two hours, demonstrating that the broth has become a darker color and the amount of liquid has reduced.

    Serious Eats / Qi Ai

  3. Using tongs, discard bones from broth. Strain through a fine-mesh strainer into a large saucepan and discard solids. Defat broth with a ladle if using the same day. Broth can also be transferred to sealed containers, refrigerated overnight, then skimmed the next day, using a spoon to remove the solid fat from the top.

    The broth being strained from the stockpot into another, smaller pot through a fine mesh strainer.

    Serious Eats / Qi Ai

  4. For the Wontons: Place shelled shrimp in a small bowl. Add baking soda, 1 teaspoon salt, and 1/4 cup (60ml) water and mix with fingers. Set aside for at least 15 minutes and up to 1 day in the refrigerator. Drain when ready.

     Shrimp, baking soda, 1 teaspoon of salt, and 1/4 cup of water mixed inside a small yellow bowl.

    Serious Eats / Qi Ai

  5. Meanwhile, combine pork, grated fresh ginger, sugar, soy sauce, sesame oil, half of chives, and remaining 1 teaspoon salt in a medium bowl. Mix with fingers until thoroughly combined. To test for seasoning, place a small amount on a microwave-safe plate and microwave on high power until cooked through, about 10 seconds. Taste for seasoning and add more salt as necessary.

    Pork, grated fresh ginger, sugar, soy sauce, sesame oil, half of chives, and remaining 1 teaspoon of salt combined inside a medium metal bowl.

    Serious Eats / Qi Ai

  6. Place one wonton wrapper in the center of the cutting board, keeping the rest covered in plastic. Place a 1 tablespoon-sized portion of pork filling in center of wrapper, and top with a single shrimp. Using your finger tip, moisten the wrapper with water around the edge.

    A fingertip moistening a wonton wrapper with water around the edge. Pork filling is in the center of the wonton and is topped with a single shrimp.

    Serious Eats / Qi Ai

  7. Lift two opposite corners up to meet at a point, then use your fingertips to seal the rest of the sides, forming a triangle, and squeezing out as much air as possible.

    A four-image collage showing how to correctly fold the meat-topped wonton wrapper into a triangle. The top left image shows two hands folding opposite corners of the wonton together. The top right image shows the two hands now pressing the sides together. The bottom left image shows the two hands now squeezing together the bottom corner of each side of the triangle. The bottom right image shows a complete, triangle-shaped wonton on a wooden surface.

    Serious Eats / Qi Ai

  8. Pull the two opposite corners towards each other to form the triangle into a plump folded crescent shape, using a little water to seal the edges. Transfer to a plate and repeat with remaining wontons.

    A two-image collage. The top image shows two hands pulling the two opposite corners of the wonton toward each other to form the triangle into a crescent shape. The bottom image shows a hand placing a crescent-shaped wonton onto a white platter holding many other, already-made wontons.

    Serious Eats / Qi Ai

  9. For the Soup: Bring broth to a boil. Season with salt to taste. Add wontons and cabbage and cook until wontons are cooked through, about 3 minutes. Stir in remaining chives and remove from heat. Allow to cool for 1 minute. Serve immediately.

    A two-image collage. The top image shows a stainless steel pot holding the broth brought to a boil. The bottom image shows the broth now holding the cooked wontons and cabbage leaves, with a metal ladle lifting a single wonton out of the pot to demonstrate its color and texture.

    Serious Eats / Qi Ai

Notes

Kombu is a giant sea kelp. It can be found in most Asian grocers.

Yellow chives can be found in Chinese grocers. If unavailable, green chives or scallions can be used in their place.

Make-Ahead and Storage

Both the broth and the wontons can be made ahead and frozen. To freeze the wontons, place them on a parchment-lined plate, cover them loosely with plastic wrap, then place them in the freezer until completely frozen, about 1 hour. Transfer them to a plastic bag. They can be cooked directly from frozen, just add 1 to 2 minutes to the cooking time.

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Nutrition Facts (per serving)
522 Calories
22g Fat
35g Carbs
45g Protein
Show Full Nutrition Label Hide Full Nutrition Label
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Nutrition Facts
Servings: 4
Amount per serving
Calories 522
% Daily Value*
Total Fat 22g 28%
Saturated Fat 7g 37%
Cholesterol 158mg 53%
Sodium 2069mg 90%
Total Carbohydrate 35g 13%
Dietary Fiber 1g 4%
Total Sugars 5g
Protein 45g
Vitamin C 7mg 37%
Calcium 138mg 11%
Iron 5mg 26%
Potassium 1390mg 30%
*The % Daily Value (DV) tells you how much a nutrient in a food serving contributes to a daily diet. 2,000 calories a day is used for general nutrition advice.
(Nutrition information is calculated using an ingredient database and should be considered an estimate.)